For half a century, driven by fear of obscurity, financial need, and a wanton passion for beauty, Vreeland had seen to her own social transformation from a society career girl into a feared and adored icon. "She put it on [the] model, and we were all in her office, and we were all dazed, you know. "You gotta have style. Diana told me, Theyre wonderful, but we cant use them. I asked her why. Do you know the Spanish proverb A beautiful woman would like to have an ugly womans luck? proposes columnist Aileen Suzy Mehle. No one dared applaud or even scribble a note at a show before Vreeland, according to Bailey. The couple moved to London in 1929, where Diana (reportedly pronounced Dee-Anna) began her fabo fashion career by opening a lingerie shop. Dalziel (a Scottish name pronounced Dee-el) was a stockbroker who never managed to make much money but who somehow always lived rather wella skill he passed on to his daughter along with his prominent nose. "Why don't youpaint a map of the world on all four walls of your boys' nursery so they won't grow up with a provincial point of view?" "And she said, 'With an attitude like that, you keep civilization back [a] thousand years.'". I did come back with an important essay on Gypsies. When he went back to Vreeland to explain that the Gypsy queen had eluded him, she with fake surprise asked me, What are you talking about? I had taken hook, line, and sinker. To revist this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories. We all had the feeling that wed die for her. Frecky says, He went to Tale, where he was the Rudy Vallee of his collegiate set. In London Vreeland started her career in fashion by opening a lingerie shop in the city . Thomas Reed Vreeland and Diana Vreeland were Magazine editor, fashion journalist and special consultant, Self (archiveFootage). Although I never met her (she died in 1989), it was impossible not to become entrenched in her life. Under Grace, Vogue had an enormous renaissance, Liberman says. (Alexandra went on to excel as a sportswoman at Bryn Mawr, later marrying a Scot, Sir Alexander Kinloch, and the painter Cuthbert Orde.) Snow quickly advanced her eccentric contributor to the position of fashion editor. What should I do with the Italian collections this season? photographer David Bailey once telexed her from Rome. Renewed, and elevated to her most splendid perch yet, the bird of paradise had risen from the ashes. While her reputation in the fashion world is well known, the actual breadth of her career and extent of her reach is immeasurable. "The world had no borders in her mind," says Frecky. She discovered that outr makeup and smart clothes diverted attention from her imperfect features. She stuck the pin not only into the dress but into the girl, who let out a little scream," Avedon remembered in his 1989 eulogy for her. Alternate titles: Diana Dalziel, Diana Dalziel Vreeland. She never made any bones about it. This is CALIGULA! A woman of striking individuality, Vreeland remained the doyenne of American high fashion, receiving numerous honours and awards. One was editor of all clothes. Every time Vanderbilt asked a question, the inspector replied, Let me get Vreeland to answer. Vanderbilt was so impressed that he made the young ticket taker president of the Harlem line. The industrious railwayman went on to become a director of Royal Typewriter, where he worked well into his 80s. Reed made me feel beautiful.. Outside her bedroom she had a big balcony overlooking the garden, and she had all these Italians working for her. Above, during the Bazaar years, at home in her 400 Park Avenue, NY apartment, Above, Diana photographed at home in London; the painting is by William Acton, Above, from left to right, Slim Keith with Diana & Reed at Kitty Millers New Years Eve party on Park Avenue, New York, December 31, 1952, Above, with Yves Saint Laurent, who said of Diane,Mrs. They found in a compelling, camp combination of sibyl and dinosaur. The youthful and the eccentric were featured, and the photography and design were calculated to reflect the age of youth culture, rock music, and the overthrow of traditional standards. But it was a nightmare working for her. About four years before her death, Vreeland withdrew from societya removal that, just as in her friend Garbos case, accelerated the mythmaking process. In 1924 she married Thomas R. Vreeland, with whom she lived in Albany, New York, until 1928, in London until 1936. Without it, you're nobody." She became the queen of New York society, says one of her Warhol-set friends. She was a tremendous inspiration to American sportswear, says a Bazaar colleague. In Vreelands capricious mind, only the most gossamer and elastic filaments separated truth from illusion. Help us build our profile of Diana Vreeland! "We felt the rhythm, the music, the whole tango. Diana Vreeland was previously married to Thomas Reed Vreeland (1924 - 1966). One American who instantly got the point of Vreelands stretched-to-the-limit chic was Carmel Snow, the brilliant, tippling editor in chief of Harpers Bazaar, who during her 1934-to-1957 reign, guided the magazines transformation from tasteful ladies book into the most avant-garde popular publication of its day. Shed admired what I had onit was a white lace Chanel dress with a bolero, and I had roses in my hairand she asked me if Id like a job. Snow wrote in her memoirs, I had been looking for a replacement for Daisy Fellowes [from] the new world of the International Set. Vreeland accepted because she sorely needed the income. But the costume department always retained the much less public Stella Blum as curator. When Katie Griggs died in August, kundalini adherents were berefttheyd lost their last apostle. He fell in love with someone in Canada while he was working for the dErlanger bank during the war. She was responsible for featuring the first bikini in the magazine, in 1947, after spotting one during a trip to the French Riviera. She just had these magic hands, says Lillian Groueff, who modeled for Vreeland before the war. In 1924, Diana got married to banker Thomas Reed Vreeland with whom she had two children. Although she died in 1989, she can claim more acolytes today than ever before, who reverently pore over old magazines, study old photographs and quote from her books Allure (1980) and D.V. Check your inbox or spam folder now to confirm your subscription. Diana takes out her opera glasses and starts complaining, This is the expurgated edition! Though Avedon and Vreeland became names as intertwined as Fred and Ginger, they nearly did not work together at all. Diana Vreeland was born on July 29, 1906 in Paris, France. She had an almost religious fixation on certain things, Penn said. She roused her audience to new heights: "If it's not there in fashion, fantasize it," she said. Perelman and the comedienne Spivy parodied it, they barely needed to tamper with such Vreelandisms as Why Dont You have a furry elk-hide trunk for the back of your car? and Why Dont You twist [you childs] pigtails round her ears like macaroons?. Warhol-estate executor Fred Hughes, one of Dianas intimates in the 70s and 80s, once pulled a scrapbook out of a banquette drawer and saw a clipping of Diana, at age 10 or 11, dressed as Martha Washington. Vreeland had been back in New York only six months, but she needed the money in order to continue the extravagant lifestyle to which she and Reed had become accustomed while in London. The Vreelands apartment at 400 Park Avenue and their country house in Brewster, both decorated with the help of the fashionable George Stacey, became Euro-American havens for a confraternity of worldly souls. Unexpectedly, she sailed into the conference room on the dot of the hour, all lacquered and Vaselined, a vision of black, white, and red. He was flagrantly unfaithful to her, says a former Harpers Bazaar colleague. Ive never taken any side in anything that went on in Paris during the warbecause I was not there, Vreeland told the writer Lally Weymouth. VREELAND, DIANA. The once strong, elegant gentlemans health began to fail rapidly, and despite being remarkably busy as the editor of Vogue, Diana spent as much time as possible helping to care for him. The ex-coal shovelers son embodied the periods very image of the romantic idle-rich gentleman. Through her trained and diligent eye, she opened the door of our minds and encouraged us to be free, to see, and to imagine. "), Though their sons, Tim and Frecky, were often left to be raised by nannies and governesses, Vreeland took great care that they were exposed to every culture, religion, and race. I saw enormous amounts of trouble.Diana shocked me at the time by something she said to me: Alex, after all, this is only entertainment. Right then I knew something was deeply, deeply wrong. . The couple moved to London in 1929, where they remained until 1933. Her look never really changed that much over the decades, says the Bazaar colleague. Afterwards, she rushed over to Mitzi, practically threw herself at her, and showered her with compliments. Cond Nast hired Vreeland in 1962, first as an associate editor and then to fill the prim pumps of Jessica Daves as editor in chief when the Georgia ministers daughter retired less than a year later. View personal details like address, phone & more. She ended her life as she started itit the bosom of her family. She discovered in her great-grandchildren Reed and Victoria her biggest source of pleasure. He was head of the Whiffenpoofs. She dared everyone to live in a more provocative fashion. My husband kept that connection going, but I wasnt big enough to call her. "Fashion must be the most intoxicating release from the banality of the world," she declared. Corrections? "We saw every corset, every belt buckle, every piece of new cloth," she said. "I never felt comfortable about my looks until I married Reed Vreeland. Well, it did. Shes gone to Church, Madam. CHURCH? Diana did something with those hands, and suddenly the hair was all pulled together. In 1914, her family relocated to New York, at the onset of World War I, and it is here that her quirky, yet well honed style began to shine. From 1936 to 1962, Diana Vreeland brought her imagination and wit to life on the pages of. She decided to accept Snow's offer and soon joined legendary art director Alexey Brodovitch at the magazine for what would be decades of intense collaboration and groundbreaking fashion. For one shoot, she and Dahl-Wolfe made the pilgrimage to Arizona to shoot a resort fashion story at architect Frank Lloyd Wright's Shiprock. Too impatient for the classroom, she studied dance instead, with Michel Fokine, the Russian ballet master, who, she claimed, taught me total discipline., Alexandra often summered in Wyoming, camping and riding with her mother, Astor says. The story read, ""Such motors as these accelerate the social whirl. Mummy was a very, pretty conventional child, with a petite nose, says Astor. And I said, Oh, yeah? Her career spanned six decades and witnessed major social upheavals and changes: World War II, the space age, and the sexual revolution. Harry Hopkins had married a friend of my mothers, so in the middle of the war I found myself talking to him about F.D.R. That was the charm of it when youve heard the word it means so much more than if youve only seen it. The London dining room was painted a bright yellow, Frecky says. He used to send long-stemmed white roses to the women he was seeingusually someone she knew.. On the back she had scrawled, Watch this man. The family had an opportunity to do just that when, visiting a Black Forest clinic, they found themselves attending Hitlers birthday party. Though Diana was no crypto-Fascist, her intrinsic apoliticalismPolitics, she said, are beyond my kenled to some regrettable lapses in judgment. ("What do I want with a bloody old handbag that one leaves in taxis?" In 1936 she began contributing to Harper's Bazaar a gaily frivolous column called "Why don't you?," which became a highly popular department. A garden in hell., All my life Ive pursued the perfect red. "I could never have lived except with Reed. Diana was a vivacious child who enjoyed fantasy and dancing, and also possessed a flair for dressing up. According to Frederick Frecky Vreeland, Dianas younger son, the Dalziels were a subclan, with a tartan. Vreeland invented the fashion editor., Diana & Reed continued to live their hopelessly glamorous lifestyle in New York, and in 1955, moved into the now infamous apartment on Park Avenue, with its now iconic Billy Baldwin-decorated red living room, of which Diana stated, I wanted it to look like a garden. Vreeland was removed as editor in chief of Vogue in 1971, when the heady fashion excesses of the 1960s had passed. 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